I’m keen to get to Sunrise Lakes before dark, so I push on, leaving the John Muir Trail and taking the Sunrise Lakes Trail. It’s a popular spot for campers, and there are a number of tents already set-up at around the edges of the enormous meadow. Due to an unusually heavy snowpack none of the camps were set-up this year. Normally there would be seasonal accommodation here in large canvas tents, accessible only by foot and part of the High Sierra Camps. The track descends a little before rising again up to the Sunrise High Sierra Camp. Once it reaches the Sunrise Mountain plateau, it’s fairly flat, and for the first time there are views of the knife-like Matthes Crest and Cathedral Range (from left to right is Colombia Finger, Tresidder Peak, Cathedral Pass, the top of Echo Peaks, and Matthes Crest). Other than a thin strip of green along the creek, it’s also much drier than I expected.Įventually the trail reaches the base of Sunrise Mountain, where for a mercifully short distance it ascends very steeply via a series of switchbacks. I’m surprised how few people I see on the trail, which at times is almost hard to follow, considering it’s one of the more famous long-distance trails. The John Muir Trail initially follows Sunrise Creek and ascends very gently. Instead, I cross Sunrise Creek, after re-filling my water bottles, and take the John Muir Trail back towards Sunrise Lakes. (I was banking on the rangers being gone by late afternoon, and climbing Half Dome very late in the day). From here, it’s going to be uphill regardless of where I go… Since I don’t have a Half Dome permit and I’ve still got a long way back to the car, I give on my half-baked plan of combining Clouds Rest and Half Dome. Half Dome is a constant and unmistakeable beacon that dominates the skyline.Īt the bottom of the valley is Sunrise Creek, and also the lowest elevation of the entire circuit I’m doing (around 2,195m or 7,200 feet above sea level). The trail now descends via a series of switchbacks down to the valley it’s getting warm and I’m glad to be going downhill (but less thrilled at the thought that eventually I will need to regain all of this altitude). From here I can make out the cables going almost impossibly and vertically straight up the granite monolith. There’s a clearly marked path down the rocky summit, which heads in the general direction of Half Dome.Īfter a bit less than a mile of gradual descent, I reach a small spur that faces Half Dome on the other side of the valley. To the east are some of the higher peaks – Mount Lyell, Mount Maclure and Mount Florence – some with patches of snow still clinging on to the upper slopes.Īfter taking a few photos and responding to a few urgent emails (it’s the first time I’ve had mobile reception since I arrived at the park), I continue down the southern end of Clouds Rest. The star attraction is Half Dome, rising above the valley floor. There expansive view over the partk, with Yosemite Valley stretching to the south as far as the eye can see. There are sweeping views as you ascend, but it’s not at all like many descriptions suggest.Īt the Clouds Rest summit, a large open and rocky area, there’s a fair number of people enjoying lunch – although it’s not crowded. Although you can make the ridge appear somewhat dramatic with the right camera angle, it’s not knife-edged and there’s absolutely no exposure. I was expecting something a little exhilarating, like Angels Landing. And I use the word “narrow” somewhat loosely: I’ve read descriptions such as “a narrow and knife-edged ridge”. You just follow the narrow granite ridge up to the top. There’s no path or signage from here – but none is needed. The trailhead is clearly marked, starting near the southern end of Tenaya Lake on Tioga and, and is initially fairly flat and easy walking. I’m not exactly sure the route I’m doing, but the plan is to head up to Clouds Rest, which was completely impassable due to deep snow last time I was here. There’s no traffic on the road and the mist is rising off the meadows along the road. I make an early start to hopefully avoid the crowds, leaving Tuolumne Meadows Lodge just after sunrise for the Sunrise Lakes Trailhead. I’m surprised how warm the weather is at the end of August, and even more surprised at how busy the park is. This time it’s a very different experience. and brought more than just a T-shirt and shorts to wear in April. As I got closer to the park and realised there was a solid wall of snow on both sides of the road, I thought perhaps I should have done a bit more research…. My hike to Clouds Rest and Sunrise Lakes is almost ten years since my last visit to Yosemite, when my planning consisted of little more than booking some accommodation and purchasing a map.
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